Soft Pretzels

In a large bowl, stir the brown sugar into 2 cups of warm water until dissolved. Sprinkle the yeast over the water and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.

Stir in the vegetable oil, 1 tablespoon salt, and 3 cups flour. Knead in the remaining 2 3/4 cups of flour; the dough will be slightly sticky.

Transfer the dough to a floured work surface and knead until silky, about 3 minutes; if the dough is very sticky, knead in up to 1/4 cup more flour.

Transfer the dough to a large, oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 450°F and position the oven rack in the center of the oven. Using softened butter or cooking spray, grease four large baking sheets, line them with parchment paper, then grease the paper. Punch down the dough and turn it out onto a floured work surface. Flatten the dough and cut it into 24 pieces.

Roll each piece into a 9-inch stick about 1/2-inch thick. Transfer the sticks to the prepared baking sheets, leaving at least 2 inches between them. Let stand uncovered until puffed, about 25 minutes.

Place a rack in a large baking sheet. In a large, high-sided skillet, stir the baking soda into 2 quarts of water and bring to a simmer over high heat. Reduce the heat to moderate. Using two fish spatulas, carefully transfer six pretzel sticks at a time to the simmering water for 30 seconds, turning once. Add about 1 cup of hot water, if needed, after cooking the second batch of pretzels.

Transfer the pretzel sticks to the rack-lined baking sheet to drain, then return them to the parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing them evenly.

Brush the pretzel sticks with egg wash and sprinkle with flaky salt.

Bake, one sheet at a time, on the center oven rack until richly browned, about 8 to 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature with mustard.